Sitting on an almost empty plane making its final descent over the Ombai Strait, I was filled with anticipation for the encounters the coming weeks would bring. Being an adventurous soul, it’s not unusual for me to travel to remote destinations in search of the breath-taking experiences on offer away from the usual tourist traps, but being the only Caucasian on an Airbus A330 was a new one even for me. It’s safe to say that Timor Leste is one of the most undiscovered destinations on the planet but it won’t stay this way for long.
Located at the southern extreme of the Malay Archipelago, in the eastern Lesser Sundra Islands, Timor Leste is the world’s newest country after gaining its independence in 2002. It consists of the eastern half of Timor, Atauro Island and the enclave of Ambeno. The terrain is rugged and mountainous, lush green in the wet season and dusty during the dry months. Surrounded by the Timor Sea, Ombai and Wetar Straits, the island nation is nestled in an incredibly diverse marine ecosystem. In addition to the pristine coral reefs, the Ombai-Wetar straights are host over 30 species of cetaceans, many resident populations of dolphins and whales and migratory species including the pygmy blue whales (not that there is anything small about these magnificent giants!).
My plan was to spend a few days diving the beautiful reefs around Atauro Island before joining a group led by Insider Divers to head out into the straights and hopefully bump into a few of the whales and dolphins in the area. There was a slight hitch initially as the options for getting to Atauro Island are somewhat limited and the boat I was supposed to travel on was unexpectedly out of service. But all was not lost, with some help from a local contact, I secured myself a spot on a real rustic adventure. Travelling on a traditional fishing boat early the next morning, the the way the Timorese do, is not for the faint hearted (or those afraid of water!) but it’s a journey I’ll never forget. Upon leaving the harbour, a hundred strong pod of Frasers dolphins crossed our path. The locals didn’t seem to take any interest and I took it as a clue to just how much life exists in this 2km deep channel. Three hours later, with numb limbs and soaked to the bone from the spray, we approached Atauro Island and were greeted by some resident short finned pilot whales and the more skittish melon headed whales. The island itself is being pushed upwards by the Earth’s tectonic plates and if you look closely at the topography, you can see the remains of ancient reefs and drop-offs that were once submerged along its coastline. It truly is a stunning backdrop and I was excited to see the famous reefs below.
There are a few options for diving Atauro Island but I chose to stay at the idyllic eco-resort, Atauro Dive Resort in Beloi. The friendly staff and well-run diving operation make it a perfect choice for a solo traveller and the house reef, Haruina aka ‘Mother Reef’, is truly breath-taking. It is thought to be one of the most biodiverse coral reefs on the planet and this is evident as you drift by on the gentle current. Several Marine Protected Areas have been set up along the eastern coastline of the island and it’s great to see the locals actively engaging in the conservation of their precious reefs. Other sites offer a diverse range of wall dives, coral gardens and even grassy seabeds with the possibility of spotting a dugong.
After a few days of total relaxation and stunning diving, I headed back to the mainland to join the group led by Insider Divers and Aaron ‘Bertie’ Gekoski. From his days filming Timor-Leste from Below on ScubaZoo TV, Bertie has a wealth of knowledge about the waters around Dili and it was great for him to share this with us. We spent five wonderful days on the MV Atauro tracking the cetaceans in the vicinity, including a super pod of spinner dolphins and the magnificent pygmy blue whales travelling through the straights. There’s something very magical about slipping into the water and seeing a 23 meter long behemoth glide below you or hearing the chatter of nearly a thousand dolphins. And being back onboard, sunning yourself on a beanbag while sipping a fresh coconut isn’t bad either!
Timor Leste was everything I expected and then some. Staying in Dili, offers the luxury of a comfortable hotel, the adventures of diving some remote locations, seeing a resident dugong Dougie in the morning and then a blanket of anemones in the afternoon, and the possibility to observe the migrating blue whales while taking in the stunning sunset from a beach-side bar. As a new country, there is an expectation that Timor Leste will continue to develop and it’s hard to say how long the country will remain a largely unexplored wilderness. Its people are charming, the landscapes are incredible and beneath the waves is a divers’ wonderland. One thing is certain though, I’ll definitely be going back…
Travel Tips
Getting there: There are daily flights to Dili from Denpasar (Bali) and Darwin (Australia), both of which take approximately 2 hours. Once in Dili, hotels often offer free transfers from the airport or the local taxis have a fixed fee of US$10 for airport transfers to hotels in Dili. There are two types of taxis: the regulated operator is Bluebird and you can find these at taxi stands or call them directly, these are metered and have all the mod-cons like seatbelts and AC. The alternative is to flag down a yellow cab, haggle over the fare (usually around 4 dollars for a local journey) and ignore the questionable road-worthiness of the vehicle. Getting a yellow cab is usually much quicker though so you decide!
Places to stay: There are a number of hotels in Dili and they are of a reasonable standard. Don’t expect 5 star resorts but clean and comfortable is definitely achievable. I stayed at Discovery Inn and Hotel Esplanada and would recommend both. Another option is to stay at a backpackers hostel as a cheaper alternative and Hostel DaTerra is highly recommended.
Practicalities:
- Currency: USD is the accepted currency in Timor Leste but you may get local coinage as change. Credit cards are accepted at most hotels but not in the shops and restaurants so make sure you bring enough cash with you to pay for these things. Within Dili there are ATMs available but not all banks will let you withdraw cash within Timor Leste so it’s best not to rely on getting cash out when you’re there.
- Visas: For many nationalities a visa on arrival is available. Some passports don’t require a visa for entry into Timor Leste so check what you require before you go. Information about this can be found here.
- Drinking water: The tap water in Timor Leste is not potable for tourists. Take care to always drink filtered water. This is widely available and offered by most hotels and restaurants as standard but make sure you carry medication for possible upset stomaches.
- Shopping: There are shops and pharmacies around Dili where you can find any essentials you may have forgotten. There’s also a mall where you can get local SIM cards and other supplies. Prices in Dili are not as low as you may expect in a developing country though, the cost of importing goods impacts this, so try to bring what you need with you.
- Travelling Alone: It’s fine to explore the city alone during daylight hours, taking the usual precautions required in a city such as steps to avoid pickpockets or not displaying valuables. The people are friendly and will often say hello and welcome you to their country. There are still some tensions in the country though and it’s best to avoid walking around alone at night. Getting cabs on the street after dark can also be difficult, so ask your hotel or restaurant to call one for you.
Food options: There’s a wide range of restaurants around Dili either independent restaurants, beachside establishments or attached to some of the larger hotels. The cuisine is a mix of local, Portuguese and international options. So there will definitely be something to please even the most fussy of eaters.
Diving in Dili: There are many options for diving in Dili as operators recognise the value of such beautiful reefs. Three that I can recommend here include:
Surface interval activities: Timor Leste has quite a history and if you visit the country, you should make an effort to understand this. Visiting the Resistance Museum in Dili is a very worthwhile activity for a spare couple of hours topside. You can also visit the famous Christo Rei statue which is a brief climb and soak up the last of the sun at one of the charming beachside spots below afterwards. Alternatively, there are local tour operators that can arrange more adventurous expeditions for those who have a little more time available. Check out Total Timor Tours for more information.
Atauro Island: Although some operators do offer day trips to dive Atauro Island, getting to and staying on Atauro needs planning. There are a few options for getting there including a weekly public ferry, taking a regular morning water taxi from Compass Charters Water Taxi, travelling with your dive resort or finding a spot on a local fishing boat if you have a local contact to negotiate for you. The two main operators are Atauro Dive Resort and Beloi Beach Hotel. Once on the island, the dive resorts offer comfortable accommodation at several price points. Contact them in advance to secure your spot because options are limited and bring cash for any incidentals because there are no ATMs on the island. Also, Wifi doesn’t exist on Atauro so make sure you acquire a local SIM card if you need to stay connected. If you’re looking for a remote island escape though, Atauro Island is well worth the effort.